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Hey, Whole Foods! Can you please tell your cashiers to NOT pack my fancy, fragile crackers in the bottom of my bag? Underneath the onions and celery and milk? That plastic clam shell isn't reinforced with titanium and I'd prefer whole crackers to a dusty pile of crumbs that have no better use than on top of a tuna casserole, and there's no way I'm making one of those. K? Thanks.
Now that that's over...Thanksgiving is upon us and I've been mulling over what I should make for the feast. I'm debating between making a classic pumpkin pie and an apple tart with a cheddar crumble topping...or something else entirely. If I don't make the pumpkin pie, then I'm left with a can of pumpkin puree. But that's not such a bad thing. There's a lot you can do with leftover pumpkin and it doesn't have to have anything to do with a baked good. A savory pasta sauce is a great solution for a quick autumnal dinner. You'll probably have all of the ingredients on hand for Thanksgiving anyway. And if you don't, just make sure to ask the cashier to put the canned pumpkin in the bottom of your bag when you check out.
Pumpkin Penne Pasta
1 tablespoon butter
1 medium shallot, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup solid packed pumpkin (about 1/2 of a 15-ounce can)
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth (or vegetable broth)
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
Salt and freshly ground black pepper1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 pound dried pasta
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
2. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the butter, shallot, and garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Add the pumpkin, broth, heavy cream, and 1 tablespoon of sage. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes, or until slightly thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper and stir in 1/4 cup of the cheese.
3. Cook the pasta in the boiling water according to package directions. Drain well and add to the pumpkin sauce. Stir to thoroughly coat the pasta. Serve with the remaining sage and 1/4 cup of cheese sprinkled on top. Makes 8 appetizer or 4 entree sized servings.
Part of the reason I like to make roast chicken (whether upside down or right side up) is because it gives me the ability to make a bunch of homemade stock with all of the leftover parts (probably not one of the abilities that you'll see featured on Heroes anytime soon). Having homemade broth on hand that I can use right away or freeze for later gives me the opportunity to make soups, stews, or risottos at the drop of a hat...or something.
After making this past weekend's roast bird, I knew that I wanted to use the stock right away to make a risotto. I wasn't necessarily thinking that risotto was the best choice for a Thanksgiving side dish, but then I realized that if I made a red wine or beet risotto it would be a vibrant red hue, perfect for the holidays. (AND I know the perfect recipe for the leftovers - stay tuned for that!)
I came across a beet risotto recipe in a recent Food & Wine that looked perfect for it's simplicity and limited ingredient list. I just made a few minor tweaks and...ta-dah! I had a bright red plate of goodness.
Homemade Chicken Stock
1 whole chicken carcass from a 3 - 4 pound chicken, plus the browned bits from the bottom of the roasting pan
1 large onion, cut in half
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoons salt
2 quarts cold water
1. Combine all of the ingredients in a stockpot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 60 minutes, skimming frequently.
2. Strain the stock into a large bowl, pressing on the solids. Let cool slightly and refrigerate. Remove the solidified fat from the stock before using. Can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for several months.
Beet Risotto
(Adapted from Food & Wine/Grace Parisi)
7 1/2 cups homemade chicken stock (or low sodium canned chicken broth)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large red onion, finely chopped
2 large beets, peeled and shredded (yes, you will stain your hands)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 cups arborio rice
2 cups freshly grated pecorino cheese (about 8 ounces)
1. In a medium saucepan, bring the stock to a simmer; cover and keep warm. In a large saucepan, melt the butter in the oil. Add the onion and cook over medium-high heat, stirring until softened, 5 minutes. Add the shredded beets and salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring, until the pan is dry, about 10 minutes. Spoon half of the beets into a small bowl and set aside.
2. Add the rice to the saucepan with the beets and onions and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add 1 cup of the warm stock to the rice, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring until the stock is nearly absorbed. Continue adding the stock 1 cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the rice is al dente and a thick sauce forms, about 25 minutes. Stir in the reserved cooked beets and the cheese. Cook, stirring, until heated through; add a few tablespoons of water if the risotto is too thick. Taste and adjust seasoning. Spoon the risotto into bowls. Serves 8.
I'm sorry. Clearly I watch too much TV, but there is something about that Perdue Roasterphobia intervention commercial that makes me laugh. I guess it's partly that it's true. Many people do fear roasting large cuts of meat or whole birds and also, whether or not you've ever participated in an actual intervention, there are enough reality shows out there that you might be familiar with the concept. It got me to thinking. With Thanksgiving approaching, why not practice roasting a smaller bird? There's really no difference between roasting a 3 pound chicken and a 14 pound turkey. You just use more butter.
I've roasted plenty of birds in my time, including that albatross, the Thanksgiving Day turkey (not an actual albatross). But, as you can see in the photos below, even I make mistakes. Two weekends ago I decided to roast a chicken because it was a little chilly outside and seemed like the perfect autumn dinner. I also wanted to make some homemade stock for future soups/risottos/stews/etc. Well, while trying to prep the bird and talk on the phone and make a side dish all at the same time, I ended up roasting the bird upside down! Now, if you're not planning to present it on a platter to a room full of guests, it doesn't matter. Some recipes have you roast a bird breast side down for at least half of the cooking time anyway, the theory being that the juices will collect in the breast meat, preventing it from drying out. Roasting a chicken upside down for the entire cooking process is fine, it just won't look all that pretty.
This past weekend I decide to give my roast chicken another go, mostly because I was a little embarrassed by my sad looking bird from the previous weekend. As you can see in photo 2, that bird looks much more familiar. But with regard to being pretty, I should have trussed the legs so that they're not all splayed out, looking like the bird is birthing a whole lemon (or maybe you like that look). Anyway, once again I wasn't presenting it to anyone, so I didn't care. Incidentally, both birds I purchased were kosher and tasted delicious. I was tempted by the cheaper conventional bird ($4 vs. $9 for the kosher!), but I really think you sacrifice flavor. Practice makes perfect!
1. Upside down bird
2. Right side up bird
Whole Roasted Chicken
One 3 1/2-pound chicken, preferably kosher or organic
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 whole lemon, cut in half
2 rosemary sprigs
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Pat the chicken dry. Use your hands to carefully loosen the skin from the chicken breasts, thighs, and drumsticks. Spread 3 tablespoons of the butter evenly over the meat under the skin. Rub the remaining butter all over the outside of the chicken.
2. Generously season the chicken all over, including the cavity, with salt and pepper, then stuff the lemon and rosemary into the cavity. Tie the drumsticks together with kitchen twine, if desired. Place the chicken breast side up in a roasting pan. Roast the chicken for 50 - 60 minutes, until golden and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the inner thigh registers 165°. Transfer the chicken to a work surface and let rest for at least 10 minutes. Carve the chicken and serve. Serves 4.
A couple of weeks ago I had the opportunity to go food shopping with a few friends (Jen, Lisa, Kristin) and a nutritionist from Food Trainers. In addition to regular nutritional counseling, whether for weight loss or sports training or living a gluten free life, they also offer "market foodtraining." Our trip to the grocery store was an example of a market field trip in which a nutritionist leads a small group through the store, making suggestions about when to buy organic, which fish contains the least amount of mercury, or simply which packaged foods are the most healthful (particularly helpful for those who don't cook!). You can read a more extensive summary by my friend, Jen, here.
I think that I generally make the 'right' choices when grocery shopping, so was pleased to discover that I recognized most of the information that was provided to us. But I did learn more about making better choices with regard to purchasing local (within 100 miles) and/or organic products. Although I do purchase some produce from my local farmers' market, I find that when I hit the actual grocery store, I tend to not pay attention to organic vs. conventional produce, unless it relates to the price. I did learn that by purchasing even some organic produce I can still reduce my overall pesticide ingestion. Also, if I make the effort to recognize the origin of produce, California vs. Chile or New York vs. Ohio, I can make a conscious choice to select produce that didn't have to travel as far to get to my grocery store.
With all of this information at my fingertips, I have been more aware of what I am buying, even purchasing organic milk about every other trip to the store (the Whole Foods 365 brand quart of milk is only $.99! vs. $3.69 for the organic choice - it's a tough choice!). And since I am still thinking about Thanksgiving side dish ideas that will not make you feel like a fat bastard, I perused the produce aisles today and ended up buying some Belgian Endive (from...Belguim, Ooops!) and some LOCAL ORGANIC potatoes to make a gratin that I read about in The New York Times.
Usually gratins are loaded with heavy cream and cheese (yes!) but this one eliminates the cream, though it still allows for the cheese so that you get the essence of a gratin. Umm...I actually added a bit more cheese. (Just a bit!) I think an extra 1/4 cup of grated Parmesan sprinkled on top is not going to make or break the calorie count. It's going to be the extra dollop of homemade whipped cream on top of your pie that does that.
Endive and Potato Gratin
(Adapted From Martha Rose Shulman)
1 pound Belgian endive (about 4 medium), quartered lengthwise
Salt
1 pound small red potatoes, quartered
1/4 cup chopped walnuts
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons walnut oil (or extra virgin olive oil)
1/2 cup grated Gruyère cheese (about 2 ounces)
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1. Preheat the oven to 400˚F. Oil a two-quart baking or gratin dish. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water. When the water comes to a boil, salt generously and add the endives. Blanch for 1 - 2 minutes, and then transfer to the ice water. Cool in the ice water, then drain completely and dry on paper towels. Cut crosswise into thirds and transfer to a large bowl.
2. Steam (or boil) the quartered potatoes for 10 - 15 minutes, until tender. Add to the bowl with the endives, along with the walnuts, parsley, thyme, walnut (or olive) oil and half of the Gruyère. Season generously with salt and pepper, and toss everything gently together. Turn into the prepared baking dish, scraping all of the contents of the bowl into the dish. Sprinkle the remaining Gruyère and Parmesan over the top.
3. Place the baking dish in the oven and bake for 20 - 25 minutes, until the edges of the vegetables are browned and the gratin is sizzling. Remove from the heat and serve hot or warm. Serves four.
Advance preparation: You can prepare the ingredients several hours before baking. Toss them together in the bowl again before you turn them into the gratin dish.
I think it might finally be time to acknowledge my teeny-tiny obsession with bacon. I realize that bacon overexposure started about two years ago when every Tom, Dick, and Harry jumped on the bacon bandwagon. But sometimes it's just too hard to kick the habit!
I was on board with bacon long before bacon jumped the shark with bacon chocolate bars, bacon explosions, bacon of the month clubs, and bacon vodka. But so what? Like popular TV shows that rely on desperate measures to stay relevant, I keep right on watching!
Since my recent recipes can't help but include bacon as an ingredient, I might as well share my favorite supermarket brand (and I've tasted alot!). To be clear, I am referring to bacon that doesn't require special ordering from some farm in Kentucky. There is a TON of awesome artisanal bacon, but you'd be surprised by what you can find right in your own neighborhood. I am partial to Wellshire Farms Dry Rubbed Center Cut Bacon. (All their uncured bacon is nitrate free!) I prefer a thicker sliced bacon and the center cut variety provides an extra delicious meatiness, yet it still crisps up (I don't like flabby bacon). Alternatively, if you know of a decent local butcher shop or deli, buy a chunk of slab bacon and slice it yourself to your preferred thickness (see the photos above). The point is, if you love bacon as I do, there is no reason to settle for anything but the best, or care if everyone else loves it too. There's plenty for everyone!
Recently a friend of mine asked me about alternative recipes to make for Thanksgiving that wouldn't leave you feeling like a "fat bastard" after. That got me to thinking: Is it the recipes that make you feel like a fat bastard or just how much of those recipes you shovel into your mouth? I'm thinking both, but I also think that that stuffed, sleepy feeling you feel after eating Thanksgiving dinner is more a result of a carb extravaganza overload (rolls, stuffing, mashed potatoes...) than from the trace amounts of trypotophan that you ingest from eating one or two slices of turkey. And then there's the wine. I mean, c'mon.
I came across this quinoa recipe in Food & Wine recently and actually thought that it could be a great alternative to stuffing. I've made quinoa before but always in a vegetarian context. Although I've always I liked it, I've felt that my recipes were lacking something. Hello! Just add bacon, Tina! Duh. Suddenly quinoa has taken on a whole new dimension for me. Not only is it high in protein, full of amino acids, magnesium, and iron, cooked with bacon it is delicious! And since quinoa is not a true grain (it's considered a pseudocereal more closely related to spinach or beets) and it's so healthy, you won't pass out from a fat bastard Thanksgiving coma. Well, maybe skip the appetizers just to be safe. And maybe the mashed potatoes and gravy. And the pecan pie...
Quinoa with Bacon and Almonds
(Adapted from Food & Wine)
1/3 cup sliced almonds
4 slices bacon (preferrably thick sliced), diced
1 small shallot (or garlic clove), minced
1 cup quinoa, rinsed
2 cups chicken stock
1 sage sprig
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add the almonds and toast, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 6 minutes. Let cool.
2. Heat a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until the fat has rendered and the bacon is starting to crisp, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove half of the bacon and set aside.
3. Add the shallot (and/or garlic) to the remaining bacon in the saucepan and cook, until softened but not browned, about 1 minute. Add the quinoa, stock, and sage and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat until the stock has been absorbed, 15 - 20 minutes. Remove the quinoa from the heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Discard the sage and fluff the quinoa with a fork. Stir in the parsley, toasted almonds, and reserved cooked bacon. Add salt an pepper to taste. Serves 4 as a side dish.
Do all Brussels sprouts come from Brussels? No. But apparently they were all the rage there back in the 1200's. And did you know that the lil' mini-cabbages grow on stalks? And that they are full of vitamin A, vitamin C, and folate? Yep. For some reason I was in the mood to roast up some Brussels sprouts last week, and searched high and low for them with no luck. (It's November already! Where were you?!?) Just a few days later they are all over the place. Of course. I found the stalk above at my local farmers' market and additional piles of single sprouts in my local supermarkets.
Thanksgiving is on the brain so I thought I'd share one of my all time favorite (super easy) side dishes. If you or your family think they don't like Brussels sprouts, think again. Roasting them is the key to the most fabulous results (in my humble opinion) and bacon is the secret weapon. What doesn't taste better with bacon? (You could certainly leave the bacon out...but why? WHY? OK. You veggie peeps would probably want to do that.)
Some outer leaves are likely to fall off and get all crispy. Not to fret. They are a yummy treat for the chef and anyone else fortunate enough to be standing nearby when they come out of the oven. But it's also the reason to stir everything once or twice while roasting. (I find that the vegetables on the edges of the pan tend to get more brown than what is in the center of the pan...at least in my oven). You might also want to consider making two sheet pans worth, because if you're anything like me, the bacon and Brussels sprouts will disappear before you even get around to serving them.
Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Bacon
2 pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half lengthwise
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 - 6 slices bacon, chopped
1. Preheat the oven to 400˚F. Toss all of the ingredients together in a large bowl. Spread evenly on a rimmed baking sheet and roast, stirring once midway through cooking, until the Brussels sprouts are tender and deep golden brown, 25-30 minutes. Serves 6 as a side dish.
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