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You know it's fall when piles of sweet potatoes take over the produce section at the grocery store. I never actually had a real sweet potato until I was an adult. Oh sure, we had those marshmallow topped candied yams at Thanksgiving when I was a kid, but those orange chunks came from a can (though technically yams and sweet potatoes aren't the same thing). Yuck. And marshmallows? Who came up with that idea? Ugh. I'm feeling sick just thinking about it. (Sorry to all of those who think it's the greatest dish ever. Who are you?)
Usually when people don't like sweet potatoes it's because they find them too sweet. I think they just find them covered with corn syrup, corn starch, sugar, dextrose, and gelatin. Mmmm good! (OK, maybe toasted between some chocolate and graham crackers...) But if you roast a sweet potato and remember to balance it's natural flavor with some savory components, you've got something completely different. Enter: my roasted sweet potato fries.
Since I'm basically too scared to heat a pot of oil to 325˚F, convinced that it will somehow jump off the stove top and cover me with 3rd degree burns (remind me to tell you about the burn I got on my foot while baking a pie for Thanksgiving), the oven (or toaster oven) comes in very handy when trying to fake some fries. And this particular tuber is filled with Vitamin A and beta-carotene, so you've got that healthy thing working for you. They might not crisp up quite as much as a regular fry, but they also won't be a cloying pile of unidentifiable orange objects.
Roasted Sweet Potato Fries
1 pound sweet potatoes (about 2 medium)
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
3/4 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Dijon mustard, optional
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Cut the potatoes in half crosswise and then into 1/2 inch wedges. In a large bowl toss the sweet potatoes, oil, salt, chili powder, and pepper to coat.
2. Arrange the potatoes in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast for 25 - 30 minutes, turning the potatoes over midway through cooking. Serve immediately with Dijon mustard, if desired. Makes 2 - 3 servings.
I think that eggplant is something you either love or hate. The texture is a little weird and can easily turn people off to it, and I totally get that. Don't get me started on the things that I hate simply because of the texture. (Mayo, bananas, pudding, tomato juice...)
I've been seeing a bunch of white and purple eggplants all over my local farmers' market lately, so had been thinking about what I would do with them once I finally got around to buying some. I checked out the Recipes for Health column in The New York Times and considered making some baba ganoush (and I probably still will), but saw a tomato-eggplant pasta recipe that sounded perfect for a chilly fall weekend.
After I read through the recipe a few times, it felt familiar. I finally realized that it was essentially a version of Pasta alla Norma, one of my favorite pasta dishes, probably because I remember eating it in an outdoor cafe in Sicily, which is WAY better than eating it in my tiny apartment, with the scent of my neighbor's cigarette smoking wafting through the window. (Random fact: It is supposedly named after Bellini's opera, Norma.) I had never tried making it...until now. And I'm glad I did!
This recipe calls for a cooked tomato sauce as one of the components. I did actually make my own sauce, mostly because I like to make a bunch and then freeze the leftovers, but I guess you could buy a jarred sauce instead, but ONLY if you recognize all of the ingredients and there is no added sugar. Also, if you are good at improvising, you could make a quick sauce on the fly. I recommend the recipe the way I've written it simply because it was SO GOOD. Guess I know what I'll be eating for lunch tomorrow...
Pasta alla Norma
(adapted from Martha Rose Shulman)
1 pound small eggplants (white and/or purple)
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 1/2 cups all-purpose tomato sauce*(see note below)
3/4 to 1 pound dried pasta (penne or rigatoni)
Fresh basil, optional1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino (or Parmesan, ricotta salata is traditional)
1. If you are working with small eggplants, not more than 3 inches long, trim the ends and cut them into 1/2-inch thick wedges. If the eggplants are bigger than that, cut them in half, and then into 3-inch wedges. Place the eggplant in a colander and sprinkle generously with salt, then allow to sit for 30 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels.
2. Heat a large, heavy nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Once it is hot and begins to shimmer, add the eggplant. Cook, stirring often, until the edges are nicely browned, about 10-12 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes and tomato sauce and stir together. Cover, turn the heat to medium, and cook for 10 minutes more. Remove from the heat, and keep warm.
3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt generously, and add the pasta. Cook until al dente, firm to the bite, following the package instructions for exact cooking times. Stir 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water into the eggplant and tomato mixture, until fully incorporated. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Drain the pasta, and toss with the tomato sauce and eggplant mixture. Stir in the fresh basil if using. Serve, passing the cheese for sprinkling on top if desired. Serves four to six.*Note: You can either follow the recipe below for the tomato sauce, or substitute a high quality jarred sauce. Alternatively, after the eggplant has been cooked in step 2, remove it to a plate and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil, one small onion, chopped, and 2 minced garlic cloves to the skillet. Cook for 3 minutes and then add 1 (14-ounce) can of chopped tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes more. Add the eggplant back into the skillet with the tomato sauce and continue with the rest of the recipe starting with the rest of step 2, adding the red pepper flakes and cooking 10 more minutes.
All-Purpose Tomato Sauce
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
Fresh Basil, chopped, optional
1. Heat a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add the onions and cook until they are soft and translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic, cook for 30 seconds, and then add the chopped tomatoes with their juice. Stir in the salt. Bring to a simmer and the reduce the heat the medium-low and continue to cook, uncovered, for 40 minutes. Stir occasionally.
2. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Remove the pot from the heat. If desired, use an immersion blender to puree the sauce. Stir in fresh chopped fresh basil if desired. Makes about 4 cups.
The third selection for my wine party was a Montepulciano. This red wine from the area surrounding Montepulciano (south of Siena in Tuscany) is made primarily from the Sangiovese grape (about 70%). This is not to be confused by another familiar Italian red wine, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, which is made from the Montepulciano grape (at least 85%) in the Abruzzo region of Italy (east of Rome). I never realized that there was this distinction! Anyway, this Canneto is an easy to drink, fruit forward, medium bodied red, and is meant to be drunk young (the wine, not the drinker).
Typically one would pair hearty dishes (meats, rich tomato based pastas) with an old world red wine, but since we were just snacking, I offered a few aged cheeses. If you look in the lower right had corner of my table photo, you will see a Valdeon (a terrific blue from Spain) and an aged Gouda (mine was three years old). If you haven't tried an aged Gouda, well...you should! It has this amazing nutty, caramel flavor that is addictive. I also made some of my Pan con Tomate just to have a little bread to chow on after all of the vino.
I'm starting an intensive wine class soon, so I plan to have another mini-wine party in a month or so, after my brain is jam packed with lots of new wine info (first come, first served!). Hopefully my wine knowledge and food pairings will be much more advanced and nuanced than what I've shared in that past few days. But that's just me and my crazy interest. Really, who cares? Drink and eat what you want! And if you don't feel like hosting your own party, hit up one of the million wine bars that have recently sprouted all over the place. It's a great way to sample new wines without committing to a whole bottle...or drink a few glasses AND a whole bottle. I don't judge.
After serving Prosecco at my little wine party, I moved on to a Sauvignon Blanc that I first tried in a restaurant while eating a vat of steamed mussels (Sauvignon Blanc and shellfish is a common pairing). I liked it so much that I wrote down the name so that I could check it out later. (I usually don't do that because I forget to look at my list anyway. Having an iPhone makes those little notes more accessible.) Plus, I figured that a $45 bottle of wine in a restaurant couldn't be more than $20 in a wine store.
I was right! The 2007 Domaine Mardon Quincy is about $15.99 in most stores. And it's delicious. I did a little research and found out that Quincy lies approximately 50 miles west of Sancerre in the Loire Valley, arguably the most notable region for Sauvignon Blanc. (No wonder it's tasty!) It has a crisp minerality with citrus notes, and although I didn't have any shellfish on hand, I got lucky with some goat cheese, another common pairing with Sauvignon Blanc. I served the goat cheese on dried apricots drizzled with a touch of honey then sprinkled with toasted pine nuts and fresh thyme leaves. I made sure to top the apricot with plenty of goat cheese so that the acidity of the Sauvignon Blanc had something to complement (you wouldn't want to pair anything overly sweet with it). I've served this little nosh at parties before and it's always a big hit. And I'm not even going to write it up as a proper recipe. It's more of an assemblage. Think of the photo below as my own personal Ikea assembly instructions. Just follow the picture.
OK. I'm back from vacation, extremely well rested, slightly tanned, and moderately well read (completing Twilight and New Moon in one vacay may be a lot of reading, but not particularly challenging). There's nothing like a little tropical beach time to help you forget the daily doldrums.
Actually it wasn't that long ago that I took a staycation (just trying to use all of my vacation days by the end of the year!) and spent my days furiously baking as you might recall here, here, and here. I also hosted a mini-wine tasting party with my friends Megan and Bella. I couldn't decide what I was going to make or pour until the last minute, so my pairings were a little off, but it's the thought that counts! (And there were only three of us so it's not like we could taste 6 different 2001 Cabs...only to not finish them all!)In the end I decided to serve the wine as you might over the course of a dinner. I started with Prosecco, moved on to Sauvignon Blanc, and then ended with a Rosso di Montepulciano (NOT d'Abruzzo...I'll explain the difference later). I also provided food that might work well with each.
Nino Franco Prosecco Rustico Brut NVI LOVE BUBBLY. Prosecco, Cava, or Champagne hold nearly equal places in my heart, but Prosecco is a favorite for the price, quality, and availability. Generally I buy Prosecco from the Mionetto winery, but I recalled having another that was also very good from the Nino Franco winery so decided to try it again (both are from the Prosecco making region of Veneto called Valdobbiadene). It was delish! With hints of apple, pear, and white peach and a crisp acidity, it's the perfect apertif. Or perfect anytime drink really. And I just learned that Nino Franco is the original Prosecco, first served at Harry's Bar in Venice in the early 20th century. Mix it with white peach juice for an authentic Bellini.
Unlike most people who prefer sweets (or assume that you must serve them) with their bubbles, I prefer salty snacks with mine. (For the record, I can't stand when chocolate covered strawberries are served with Champagne. Just give me the Champagne.) Fortunately, I found a great recipe for spicy almonds that would be a great bar snack anywhere. (I also served cheese straws made from puff pastry, cayenne, and Parmesan - but I forgot to take a proper photo - so just buy them at your local gourmet store :). Cheers! 
Roasted Spiced Almonds
(Adapted from Bon Appétit)
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 1/2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound whole blanched almonds
Kosher salt
1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the crushed red pepper and black pepper and stir to distribute evenly in the skillet. Add the almonds and stir to coat with the oil-pepper mixture.
2. Cook until the almonds begin to darken slightly and the mixture is fragrant, stirring frequently (do not walk away), about 8 minutes. Transfer the mixture to rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle generously with coarse salt. Cool completely. Makes about 3 cups.
I'll be back tomorrow!
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